How to Maintain Swimming Pool Water - Part 2

Applying Granular Shock to your pool

Granular shock should be mixed with water before adding to the pool.  Otherwise it could reduce the life of your vinyl liner.  When mixing granular shock, wear safety glasses and rubber gloves.  Using a 5-gallon bucket, insert 1 pound of granular shock. Be careful not to inhale the vapors or dust.  Add water to fill about ½ way with a hose (be careful of splash back) and stir very well with a wood stick.  Pour the mixture slowly into the water on the pool steps. If there are any granules left on the bottom of the bucket (there usually is) then add more water and stir and pour this in again. As with all pool chemicals, keep children and pets away from the bucket when mixing and keep everyone out of the pool when adding to the pool.  The best time to apply is in the evening because the chlorine won’t escape/evaporate (sunlight causes this).  Also, you must keep everyone out of the pool for about 8 hours after shocking to allow time for the shock to circulate throughout the pool.

On a routine basis, apply one pound of shock about every 10 days to keep the pool chlorine level active.

Applying Chlorine Tablets

Chlorine tablets can be added to the chlorinator.  Usually 2 or 3 at a time should last about a week before you need to add 2 or 3 more.  You can also put chlorine tablets in a floater basket but remove the floater basket before swimming.  Do not put tablets in the skimmer basket.  When you open the chlorine tablet container, avoid inhaling. .  Keep children and pets away also.  After handling the tablets rinse your hands off in the pool water.  Avoid touching your eyes.

Adjusting the pH and Alkalinity

If the alkaline is low, try add baking soda to the skimmer in the morning.  You could also add ‘alkaline increaser’ or ‘alkaline up’ if you don’t want to use baking soda.

Keeping a pH reading around 7.4 and 7.6 is the best level for your swimming pool.  It is easiest on your eyes and the pool parts and equipment.  If it is lower than 7.0 then most likely the alkaline is also low. Adding baking soda or ‘alkaline up’ should raise the pH also.  If the pH is still low after a day or two, then try adding pH increaser.

If the pH and alkaline are too high, then the water tends to get cloudy and this condition could invite algae growth.  Under these conditions, I would get the ‘alkaline decreaser’ or the ‘pH decreaser’ from the pool supply store. 

If the cyanuric acid is too high, then I suggest backing off on the chlorine tablets since these contain cyanuric acid.  Shock doesn’t have cyanuric acid and can be used temporarily until the cyanuric acid levels come down to normal.  If this is the case, try adding 1 pound of shock (using the mixing method in the bucket and apply to pool steps) about every other 3 days for about 2 weeks.  Then return to the tablets.  Ask your pool supply store for more advice on this if the condition continues.  They may recommend draining a few inches of water from the top of the pool.  The cyanuric acid tends to hang on the top.

Green Water Trouble Shooting Tips

If you pool water turns green, this could be caused by algae growth if the pH is too high or if the chlorine level is too low. Adding chlorine tablets (sanitizer) should alleviate this. If the pH remains high then add ‘pH decreaser’ or ‘pH down’ and follow the instruction on how to apply. 

If the pH is low and the chlorine is 3.0 ppm and the water remains green, then this could be an indication that your water has a high copper level.  Have your water tested at the pool supply store. There are products at the pool supply store that can remedy this situation.

Green water could also be an indication your filters are dirty or coated with tree pollen.  This usually happens a day or two after you add shock because it breaks down the yellow/green pollen material collected on your filter that is eventually pushed back into pool.

To remedy this, pull the filters and hose them off. Add baking soda and within a day or two the water should clear.

Routine Maintenance to keep pool water crystal clear

On a daily basis, remove any leaves and debris from the skimmer basket.  Also check the pump trap basket to see if this has a lot of debris floating around.  Occasionally empty this as well.

Remove leaves and bugs that are floating on top of the water with your hand held leaf net or hand held pool skimmer. 

Also keep the filtering system clean.  Backwash filters or remove filters from housing and hose off about every two weeks or so.

Test the water with test strips to check the component levels.  Make any necessary adjustments that are needed.

How to Maintain Swimming Pool Water - Part 1

It’s all about the water.  In order to make your pool look inviting, you need to keep the water crystal clear. 

You do not have to be a chemist in order to maintain the water quality in your pool.  However, you should understand the components that make your pool water safe and ideal for swimming.   The components are tested based on a parts per million (ppm) measurement.  This is the measurement of the parts of a substance in relation to one million parts by volume of pool water.

How to Test Swimming Pool Water

Using the test strips from the pool supply store should be sufficient for testing.  Get the strips that show the chlorine, alkaline, pH, and cyanuric acid.  Find an area away from the skimmer and the returns and with the strip in hand submerse about 18 inches into the water for about 10 seconds.  Remove but don’t shake water off.  Wait a few moments until the colors fill in.  Compare each component’s color reading to the color range on the product bottle. (Read the instructions that were provided with the test kit as this procedure could vary from product to product).

pH 

The pH balance of your water impacts the effectiveness of the chlorine in your water. The idea test reading for pH is between 7.4 and 7.6.  If the test reading is below 7.2 then the water is more on the acidic side. A test reading above 7.8 indicates the water is more on the alkalinity side.  Monitor the pH daily using test strips.

Chlorine

To keep bacterial, pathogens, and algae from growing in your water, the chlorine (sanitizer) level needs to be at a safe level for swimming.  A chlorine test reading between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm is optimal.  If you use bromine tablets instead of chlorine as the sanitizer, then the reading should be between 2.0 and 4.0 ppm.  Ask your pool store for more advice on the pros and cons of using bromine instead of chlorine, or if you want to switch over to bromine from chlorine or visa versa.  Monitor the chlorine level daily using the test strips

Alkalinity

The alkalinity reading should be between 100 and 120 ppm.  Typically goes hand in hand with pH.  If the alkalinity reading is low, then most likely the pH reading is low and visa versa.  Typically chlorine shock contains alkaline which will help raise the alkaline level.  On the flip side of that, chlorine tablets which contain cyanuric acid tends to lower the alkalinity.

 Cyanuric Acid

The cyanuric acid (chlorine stabilizer) reading should be between 20 and 30 ppm. This component is usually a product of chlorine tablets.  It slows the escape/evaporation of chlorine which in turn helps to maintain a more consistent chlorine level.  However, since chlorine tablets contain this component which is an acid, it tends to lower the alkalinity and the pH.

Safety Considerations

Consideration to keep in mind when dealing with pool chemicals:

  • Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings as indicated on the label.

  • Don’t mix any chemicals together.  Add each separately to the pool.

  • Wear protective safety glasses and avoid breathing in vapors when applying.

  • Store chemical in a cool, dry, and shaded area out of reach of children and family pets.

How to apply pool chemicals

If your pool is sanitized using chlorine chemicals, then the two primary applications you’ll want to use in your pool are chlorine shock (I like the granular shock that is package in 1 pound bags) and the chlorine tablets (I prefer the 3 inch tablets that you add to the chlorinator).

If your pool is sanitized with a chlorine generator system that produces chlorine from salt added to the pool, then you won’t need to add chlorine chemicals at all. You just need to add salt occasionally to the pool and adjust the main control unit to increase the amount of chlorine release.  Ask your pool installer or pool supply store for advice on this. 

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is an idea ingredient for raising the alkalinity and the pH.  Other products like pH Increaser and Alkaline Increaser are available at the pool supply store.

Adjusting Pool Water After Pool Opening

When you first open your pool, you should get the system running before adding the initial dose of sanitizer via chlorine shock.  However, if you have a chlorine generator, you only need to add salt to the pool so you can skip to the the Adjusting the pH and Alkalinity section.

If applying chlorine shock, then for example: a 16’ by 32’ pool which is about 20,000 gallons, one pound of shock should raise the chlorine level to 2 ppm.  You should probably add 2 pounds to kill all the bacteria and get the level to 4 ppm.  After this you may need to add more if the chlorine level doesn't rise to the appropriate level. I would not add any more shock for at least a day or two after the initial dose.  Also wait about two days before adding the (chlorine or bromine) tablets to the chlorinator.  Otherwise your chlorine level may be too high.  Also, do not add (chlorine or bromine) tablets to the skimmer basket.  Doing so will reduce the life of the pool pump and filter.  Getting the chlorine to the correct level after pool opening can be tricky. 

Best Hotel Hot Tubs - Part 1

There’s no escaping it: after a day hoofing it around Paris from Montmartre to Montparnasse; off-roading in a bare-bones Land Rover on safari in Botswana; or attacking moguls in Vail, CO, the day’s activities are bound to haunt you. One of the oldest, most common ways known to man to relieve aches and pains is also one of today’s most luxurious and coveted amenities. In ancient times, the Romans named it the caldarium; we simply call it the hot tub.

Today, hot tubs are tucked into balconies and placed like ornate centerpieces on white-sand beaches. Hotels are increasingly charging architects with creating steaming jet-powered oases that will fuel guests’ imagination and allow them to while away their vacation in warmth—and turn to Jell-O.

And that’s exactly what happened when Resorts West partnered with Ski magazine and Deer Valley Resort to build the most idyllic ski-in, ski-out home possible. Resorts West CEO and cofounder Joe Ballstaedt wanted to one-up the extravagant lodges he had visited in Europe and South America—especially when it came to the après-ski amenities.

"Our Ski Dream Home—a six-bedroom luxury home atop Deer Valley Resort’s Little Baldy Peak with a stunning kidney-shaped hot tub for 12—improves on Chile’s top resort lodges with natural grottoes and epic mountain backdrops," says Ballstaedt.

The view, though, is just one measurement of a great Jacuzzi. For John DiScala, owner of the travel Web site JohnnyJet.com, the hot tub also needs to be secluded. And DiScala has seen plenty of hot tubs, good and bad—he travels about 150,000 miles and visits around 20 countries each year, from Brazil to Malaysia.

So we consulted him and other hot tub aficionados to compile a list of the world’s best hot tubs, which stretch from Jackson, WY, to the Maldives. Some tubs sit on the edge of pristine, white-sand beaches, while others are hidden behind deep jungle foliage. A few will take hours and a tiny seaplane to reach, and one was even created by film icon Francis Ford Coppola.


The Molori Safari Lodge, South Africa’s North West Province

You can watch elephants, zebras, African wild dogs—even lions—from the six-person in-ground tub at this five-suite lodge, situated below the red-hued Dwarsberg Mountains on 12.4 acres deep inside South Africa’s 185,329-acre (malaria-free) Madikwe Game Reserve. Personal butlers supply soakers with Amarula, a South African cream liqueur made from the fruit of the African marula tree, on crushed ice, and “Biltong and Droewors,” a traditional cured-beef snack. —Christina Erb


Nimmo Bay Resort, British Columbia, Canada

At Nimmo Bay Resort, two idyllic red cedar tubs, heated to 104 degrees, are secreted away in a wooded inlet, 200 miles north of Vancouver. After a day of wildnerness adventures or heli-fishing the area’s remote rivers and lakes, rotate between the naturally cold plunge pool and one of the two eight-person hot tubs for an exhilarating hot-cold rush. The tubs are filled by Nimmo Bay’s cascading waterfall, whose clear water trickles down from the top of Mount Stephens. —Christina Erb


Amangani, Jackson, WY

This 40-suite resort’s hot tub clings to the western edge of Jackson Hole’s East Gros Ventre Butte and is a mere 20-minute drive from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. The slate tub is 103 degrees and was designed, alongside the 35-meter, quartzite-tiled pool, to be the resort’s centerpiece. Since the winds can howl at 7,000 feet, it’s not uncommon for one of the resort’s staff to bring guests hot beverages in the colder months and cold beverages and assorted treats like sorbets and snow cones in the warmer months. —Christina Erb


Blancaneaux Lodge, near San Ignacio, Belize

Francis Ford Coppola’s Blancaneaux Lodge has a hydroelectric plant that heats the 11,000-gallon hot tub with the excess electricity it generates. The tub itself was designed by Oscar-winning production designer Dean Tavoularis. Made from thousands of pieces of local granite and built by local stone craftsmen, it sits in a hillside amid the same kind of lush jungle paradise Coppola fell in love with while filming Apocalypse Now. —Christina Erb


Conrad Maldives Rangali Island, Maldives

Overlook the Indian Ocean from the ultra-private two-person, 104-degree hot tub outside of Conrad Maldives’ Over-Water Spa on Rangalifinolhu Island. The resort is set on two private islands, linked by a bridge, and surrounded by a vibrant coral reef, among miles of idyllic white-sand beaches. Each secluded tub gives guests uninterrupted views of the bright blue water. Hotel staffers supply cool aromatic towels and fresh fruit juices. —Christina Erb


Regent Palms, Turks and Caicos Islands

The Palms’ multimillion-dollar infinity-edge pool and 10-person hot tub overlook the North Atlantic and sit on the coveted Grace Bay Beach. The 72-suite resort is home to a 25,000-square-foot spa and is just steps away from fine-sand beaches and turquoise waters. You might find yourself enjoying a chilled scented towel next to such high-profilers as Jamie Lee Curtis and U.S. Senator John Kerry (both former guests). —Christina Erb


Banyan Tree Lijiang Resort & Spa, Lijiang, China

At the 125-room Naxi-influenced Banyan Tree, in Lijiang, in the Yunnan province of southwestern China, each Garden Villa features a lush private courtyard complete with its own two-person, 100.4-degree hot tub that looks out on the famous Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Ask for local plum wine and Chinese tea while you soak. —Christina Erb


Matakauri Lodge, Queenstown, New Zealand

The hot tub at this alpine cedar-and-schist stone lodge is nestled in native bush on the edge of Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors lift to expose the simple, cedar-timber hot tub to the elements—alfresco access to the garden and commanding views of The Remarkables mountains. It’s just minutes away from fly-fishing, bungee-cord jumping, and glacier adventures. —Christina Erb


The Hotel on Rivington, New York City

Settle into this coveted cedar hot tub—perched far above the Lower East Side’s bustling streets—with nine of your favorite friends and an order of Pearadise champagne cocktails. Visionary developer Paul Stallings (a catalyst for much of the downtown NYC neighborhood’s revitalization) also designed the hotel’s centerpiece tub with lofty extras: cool off in the outdoor shower in summer, or, in winter, toast your toes near the outdoor fireplace. —Christina Erb


The Ski Dream Home, Park City, UT

At nearly 8,000 feet above sea level, the 12-person stone hot tub at this opulent ski-in, ski-out home atop Deer Valley Resort’s Little Baldy Peak is ideal for an après-ski cocktail party. Guests can watch the sunset turn the Wasatch Mountain Range purple from the hot tub, which is surrounded by 1,000 square feet of heated outdoor pool, grotto, fireplace, and radiant-heated concrete flooring for below-zero-degree winter nights. —Christina Erb

6 Steps to the Perfect Inground Pool

1. Pick a Pool

There are three main types of inground pools. In order of popularity they are: concrete, vinyl-lined and fiberglass. In small pockets of the country, you might also find contractors building steel- or aluminum-walled pools.

Concrete pools are truly custom-built and can be formed to virtually any size or shape. These types of pools are often called Gunite or Shotcrete pools because concrete is shot from a gun onto steel-reinforced walls. Once the concrete cures, it's either plastered smooth, painted, finished with a textured aggregate surface or tiled. Alternatively, a smaller percentage of concrete pools are formed and poured in a way similar to a house foundation. This technique, called structural concrete, is often used for pools built into hillsides.

It typically takes longer to install a concrete pool than any other kind—generally between three and 12 weeks—but it's considered the strongest, most durable type of pool. In fact, there are many concrete pools still in use today that are well over 50 years old. And, unlike any other type of inground pool, existing concrete pools can be remodeled, enlarged and updated.

Vinyl pools are made from a preformed flexible liner that fits into the hole and attaches to a reinforced wall frame made of steel, aluminum or non-corrosive polymer. Most vinyl pools are rectangular, but L-shaped and freeform liners are also available. And vinyl liners come in dozens of patterns and colors to satisfy anyone's personal preference or poolscape design.

When considering a vinyl pool, be aware that pool toys, pets and sharp objects can puncture the liner. And while liners can be repaired, play it safe by choosing one that's at least 20 to 30mm (about 1 inch) thick. Construction time for a vinyl-lined pool is generally one to three weeks.

Fiberglass pools are factory-molded into one giant bowl-shaped piece, which is set into the excavated hole by a crane. As a result, fiberglass pools can be installed much faster than other pool types. In some cases, installation takes as little as three days.

Fiberglass pools have a super smooth gel coat finish that's extremely durable and stain resistant. Unlike concrete, fiberglass pools are nonporous, so they tend to use fewer chemicals and harbor less algae.

However, fiberglass pools come in fewer sizes and shapes than concrete or vinyl pools. And the huge molded pools must be shipped via truck, which are often forced to take long, circuitous delivery routes. "The transportation of oversized loads is regulated by individual states," explains Suzanne Barrows of the Association of Pool and Spa Professionals. "Therefore, truckers will often have to drive around several states to deliver a fiberglass pool."

How a fiberglass pool gets to your house isn't your responsibility, but there must be adequate space in your yard for the crane to drive to the pool site.

All three types of pools—concrete, vinyl and fiberglass—are available nationwide. However, some types are more prevalent than others in certain regions. The flexibility of fiberglass and vinyl liners makes them ideal for very cold climates where winter freezing and thawing cycles can damage a rigid concrete structure. Vinyl pools are sold in most areas, yet fiberglass is most popular in the south. Not sure which type of pool is best for you? Rely on the expertise of local pool contractors. If they're all installing the same type of pool, it's probably for a good reason (it often has to do with the local climate and soil conditions).

2. Compare Pricing

It's difficult to say how much you'll pay for an inground pool. Cost varies widely depending on the region of the country, type of pool, soil condition, circulation system, accessories and, of course, the size and shape of the pool. Even the time of year can influence the price; some contractors offer discounts for pools built during the off-season when business is slow.

Generally speaking, concrete pools are the most expensive, followed closely by vinyl-lined pools, and then fiberglass. However, a high-end, tricked-out fiberglass pool could cost more than a barebones concrete pool.

I can tell you that here in New England, my neighbor—and new best friend—Bob paid nearly $40,000 for a 20- x 40-ft. concrete pool. That price included the filtration system, initial water fill-up, underwater lights and stone coping around the pool's edge, but not the cost of the fencing, landscaping and other pool-related items. When determining the total cost of a pool, take into account these not-so-incidental expenses (see Step 6).

"Our customers typically spend about twice the pool cost to complete their swimming pool project," says Tommy Johnson, owner of Johnson Pools and Spas in Huntsville, Ala. "If you buy a $50,000 pool, be prepared to spend an additional $40,000 to $50,000 before all is said and done."

3. Check With Zoning

Inground swimming pools are subject to building and zoning regulations just like any other home-improvement project. Therefore, you must apply for a building permit and receive approval before any work can begin.

Building and zoning rules differ from town to town, but ordinarily you must satisfy certain setback distances from the pool to property lines, septic tanks, wells, sewer lines, wetlands and the like. There are also codes concerning pool barriers and gate hardware.

Generally, a perimeter wall or fence must be at least 4 ft. tall and equipped with self-closing, self-latching gates. Fence boards or balusters must not be spaced more than 4 in. apart. Chain-link fences must have openings no larger than 1-1/4 in. wide.

For an extra level of protection, especially if you've got young children or grandchildren, consider mounting alarms on all house doors and gates leading to the pool, and installing a power safety cover over the pool. For a list of specific rules and restrictions, contact the local building department or zoning board.

4. Site the Pool

Picking the proper spot for your inground pool is as important as the pool itself. An experienced pool contractor can provide valuable insight, but be sure to consider the following pool-placement tips:

* Let the Sun Shine In: Take advantage of free solar energy by picking a pool location that's open to the sun and well away from any trees. Such a location will not only warm up the water, it'll also reduce the number of leaves that drop into the pool.

* Block the Breeze: Building a pool in a windy location greatly increases water evaporation, which means you'll constantly have to add pool water to maintain the proper level. Strong winds can also make you feel uncomfortably cool when wet. Create a windbreak by erecting a solid-board fence, or by planting a row of thick shrubs or trees.

* Stay High and Dry: Avoid building in a low-lying area, which could result in the pool flooding with mud and debris during periods of heavy rain. Also avoid areas with a high water table; rising groundwater will flood the deep end of the excavated hole.

* All Clear Above and Below: The pool shouldn't be located beneath overhead telephone or electrical wires, or directly over buried sewer lines, septic systems or electrical cables.

* Keep Eye Contact: Whenever possible, build the pool within view of the house. That way, you can keep an eye on swimmers even while you're indoors.

* Accommodate Accessories: When determining pool placement, be sure there's enough room for installing accessories, such as a whirlpool spa, slide, diving board, bench seats and utility shed.

5. Choose a Circulation System

The pool's circulation system is designed to keep the water clean and crystal clear. To do this effectively, it uses both filtration and sanitization. The heart of the filtration system is the pump. This draws water from the pool's bottom drains, sends the surface water through an automatic skimmer, and then passes everything through a filter before recirculating it to the pool. There are three types of filters commonly used: sand, cartridge and diatomaceous earth (DE).

All three types of filters work well when properly installed and well maintained. An experienced contractor will help you decide which filtration system is best for your pool.

Sand filters are the oldest and most common method of pool-water filtration. They use special filter sand to trap dirt and debris. As the sand particles "load up" or become clogged, they trap smaller and smaller particles. Sand filters are cleaned by backwashing, which involves reversing the water flow through the filter and flushing the dirty water into a waste line.

Cartridge filters have been around for a number of years, but their popularity has only recently begun to skyrocket. This system uses large cylindrical cartridges to screen out dirt. Most pool builders recommend using large cartridges that have 500 to 600 sq. ft. of filter area. Unlike sand filters, cartridges don't require backwashing. Instead, you simply remove them and rinse off the dirt with a garden hose, a process that uses much less water than backwashing. In fact, backwashing has become an environmental issue in the southwest and other drought-prone areas of the country.

"If every inground pool owner in the greater-Phoenix area used cartridge filters," states Kevin Woodhurst of Premier Pools in Chandler, Ariz., "we'd collectively save about 1.5 billion gallons of water each year."

Diatomaceous earth is a porous powder that has microscopic openings, similar to tiny sponges. As water passes through the openings, particles are trapped. DE filters can strain out dirt, dust, algae and some forms of bacteria. When DE filters become dirty, they're cleaned by backwashing but use far less water than sand filters. Afterward, fresh DE is added to the filter. A filtration system removes debris, but a chemical sanitizer is required to kill organic contaminants, such as bacteria and algae. And an oxidizer is used to kill both inorganic and organic contaminants. There are three EPA-registered sanitizers commonly used in swimming pools: chlorine, bromine and PHMB.

Chlorine is by far the most commonly used pool sanitizer; it's also an effective oxidizer. When dissolved in water, chlorine releases free-available chlorine, also known as hypochlorous acid. There are different kinds of chlorine sanitizers available, including cal hypo, dichlor, gaseous chlorine, liquid chlorine, lithium hypochlorite and trichlor. Bromine (hypobromous acid) tablets can also be used as a pool sanitizer. The solid white tablets slowly dissolve to produce free-available bromine, which is also a strong oxidizer. PHMB (polyhexamethylene biguanide) is a pool sanitizer that's used in conjunction with hydrogen peroxide and an algaecide. Hydrogen peroxide is used as an oxidizer.

Salt chlorine generators represent the very latest advancement in pool sanitization. Instead of using standard pool chlorine, this system transforms common table salt into chlorine. Contrary to what you may have heard, salt chlorine generators don't create saltwater swimming pools.

Note that it's important to test the pool water before adding chemicals arbitrarily. Take a water sample to a local pool store for analysis, or buy a do-it-yourself test kit. "Keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.8, and maintain the alkalinity between 80 and 120 parts per million," recommends Kevin Woodhurst of Premier Pools. During the summer's very hottest stretches, check the water chemistry several times a week. "Keeping the pool water properly balanced is the very best way to control sanitizer consumption," advises Woodhurst.

6. Beware of Budget-Busters

As mentioned earlier, the true price of an inground pool is often about twice the cost of the pool itself. That's because there's so much more to an inground pool than a hole filled with water: You need to enhance the landscape, buy accessories and invest in pool maintenance.

Here's a list of items that aren't typically included in the price of the pool: outdoor lighting, landscaping, pathways, decks, fencing, patios, privacy screens, whirlpool spas, outdoor sound system, water test kits, shade structure, patio furniture, equipment shed, storage cabinet, pool toys, additional outdoor electrical outlets and telephone line.

You're not likely to need all of these items, but keep them in mind when formulating your construction budget.

 

Swimming Pool Covers: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

By Marcus Sheridan

With the summer soon coming to a close, the time to cover your pool for the winter months soon approaches. Many of you may already have a winter cover that you're happy with, others may be curious as to the other options that are available. This article will talk about the three main types of pool covers and the pros and cons of each.

Standard Winter Cover: Price Range $75-$225

The Good:

This cover does a nice job of keeping out sunlight as well as other debris.

The Bad:

Standard covers are made of a "tarp" like material and are held down with water bags. This material only lasts between 1 and 3 seasons before it has to be replaced. One of the other main drawbacks of this type of cover is the fact that it holds very little weight. In other words, if a dog, animal, or person attempts to walk on the cover they will get very wet. Standard covers also require a pump, which means that one must be vigilant throughout the off-season as to ensure too much water does not build up on the top, causing the cover to cave in.

The Ugly:

Other then the fact that their longevity is so poor, standard winters cover can be hard to look at for seven months out of the year, as their appearance is not what I would call "aesthetically pleasing".

 

Security Cover: Price Range $1200-$3000

The Good:

About 90% of our inground pool customers utilize a security cover. These covers have somewhat of a trampoline appearance, with spring-loaded straps connected to the cover, and anchored into the concrete, to hold it in place. There are two types of security covers. The main type we offer is made of a mesh material. This cover is very effective in keeping leaves and debris out, and can also support a great amount of weight, including heavy snow loads. Because it is mesh, no pump is required on top(the rain water just passes through), and so once it is on for the off-season, there is typically no additional upkeep to worry about. These covers normally last between 10 and 15 years. The other type of security cover consists of a solid vinyl material. The main benefit of a "solid" security cover is that does not allow any water to pass through, which means that the water should still be clear in the spring opening season. Solid security covers normally last between 6 and 10 years.

The Bad:

The main drawback that some find with mesh security covers is that they allow water to pass through, which means the pool water can be very dirty when it comes time to open it in the spring. This cloudy/murky water is usually clear within 2-5 days of opening, but it does take some work getting it back to normal. On the flip side of this discussion, solid covers, although they allow for a much prettier opening, require a pump on top (which have to be adjusted periodically throughout the off-season). These cover pumps, because of the wear and tear of the cold months, usually only last 2-4 years before they quit working, and their replacement cost is around $225. Solid covers also do not last nearly as long as mesh covers.

The Ugly:

Based on my experience, I really can't classify any of the drawbacks of security covers as "ugly".

 

Automatic Covers: Price Range $5000-$15,000

The Good:

Automatic covers come in many forms, and this is the reason for their broad price range. Their two biggest benefits are the fact that they are wonderful solar covers and they offer constant protection against unwanted guests/swimmers. They also help keep leaves and debris out of the pool during the season, potentially cutting down on time spent cleaning/maintaining the pool.

The Bad:

Auto covers are made of a vinyl material that typically wears out after five years or so. The cost of replacing this material is quite expensive (2-4k), and considering their initial cost, can be quite frustrating for homeowners. Another problem with these covers that many people don't realize is that because they are such good solar covers, sometime they can heat the water too much. This especially occurs during the months of July and August when most pool owners do not want their pool water to be any warmer. I have seen cases where auto covers will cause the water to get over 95 degrees, which feels like taking a bath at that point and is not very refreshing at all.

The Ugly:

The biggest problem with auto covers is their propensity to break down. With so many components (motor, ropes/pulleys, vinyl, aluminum track, etc.), there are many parts that can break down. We find that after about 3 years auto covers can break down quite often, which can be very frustrating, especially if the cover breaks and it can not be taken off the pool, disallowing anyone to swim. I have seen this occur many times and it's never a pleasant experience. The other big problem with auto covers is the fact that they are not "true" winter covers. Although they are rated to hold about 2,000 lbs, a heavy snow load can cause these covers to cave-in. In some cases, it is necessary for homeowners to open their cover before a major snow storm as to eliminate the potential of any cave-ins from happening.

Planning for a Pool

Constructing or installing a pool may seem overwhelming with so many options and decisions. Here are the issues to consider to help you make the best choice for you and your family. A pool is a major investment, in many ways. You'll need to invest cash, of course, but also time, energy, and yard space. In this portion of the Pool and Spa Guide, we'll look at the key questions that you'll need to answer before you make these investments.

Things to Consider

  • How much pool can I afford?
  • Is my yard suited to a pool?
  • What zoning restrictions do I face?
  • Who should install my pool and how long will it take?
  • What should I know about safety and insurance?

In-Ground Pools

Design and construction costs make in-ground pools more expensive to build.

In-ground pools with minimal patio surrounding and basic fencing start around $20,000.

More elaborate designs will run between $40,000 to $100,000+. Choice of pool design and building materials, patio materials, landscaping, lighting and extra features such as spas or fountains determine the cost.

Ongoing Expenditures

Chemicals
The cost for pool chemicals averages between $50 and $100 per month depending on your climate, pool size and frequency of use. Above-ground pools of a similar size will cost the same as in-ground counterparts.

Opening and Closing A Pool
Hiring a professional to open and close your pool each season will run approximately $150-$300. Cleaning and storing your pool cover is usually additional.

Maintenance
The largest maintenance expense is a pool's interior finish. Vinyl liners last approximately 5-7 years, painted concrete needs a new coat approximately every five years; a plaster finish may last 10-15 years. Many of the new cement-coated products such as Pebble Tec are meant to last a lifetime.

Equipment
Equipment lifespans vary tremendously by brand and quality. Other elements such as proper water chemistry and location of equipment can affect lifespan. Because pumps are made to push water rather than draw water, pumps placed at pool level often last longer than those that sit higher and have to pump harder.

Utilities
While utility bills do increase during a pool's open season, experts disagree on how to manage the increase.

Size

Pool size is primarily a personal choice. Some prefer to eliminate grass entirely and fill the space with pool and patio while others want to include yard in the new landscape.

Be sure you and your contractor have the most up-to-date zoning and building restrictions for swimming pools and spas, and ask your contractor how the permit process is handled.

Zoning is primarily handled on a local level and typically covers such issues as fencing and barriers, pool depth requirements for diving boards, set-backs and proximity to utility lines. Other issues may also be covered.

Choosing a Contractor

  • Get referrals from friends and neighbors.
  • Talk to at least three builders.
  • Determine number of years in business under present name and ownership.
  • Ensure contractor is bonded and insured. Get proof.
  • Visit their work firsthand and talk with the homeowners about their experience with this contractor.
  • Talk with suppliers about the contractor's status.
  • Do they subcontract work or use their own staff?
  • Do they have design experience? Do they offer design services?
  • It is not customary to pay the full amount up front.
  • Get lien waivers for all work completed.

Construction Times

  • Anticipate a little dirt in your life during construction of an in-ground pool. Your contractor can estimate a project completion date but remember Mother Nature doesn't always cooperate.
  • An in-ground pool takes anywhere from three to twelve weeks depending on the complexity of the project.
  • Above-ground pools can be installed in a matter of hours or a few days.

Safety

Safety is a number one concern for pool and spa owners. Proper enclosures and supervision are a must at all times to ensure the safety of children, pets and wildlife that may wander near the pool.

Many specialty safety products are available on the market, including water alarms, high-tech laser technologies, safety covers and personal safety accessories like life jackets and pool floats.

Insurance

Insurance coverage for swimming pools is part of homeowners insurance. Some insurance companies raise premiums for owning a swimming pool and others do not. Speak with your insurance agent prior to purchasing or building your pool.

Conditions

Besides determining the best fit for your yard's dimensions consider your yard's slope, soil type and accessibility for construction equipment.

Pools are easier to build or install when a yard is level, however, new technology makes it possible to install a pool in virtually any yard.

Severe conditions such as steeply sloping lots, rocky soil and limited access require special construction and installation considerations and typcially add to the overall cost and duration of the project.

 

 

How to Winterize Your Inground Swimming Pool

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The main purpose in winterizing your inground swimming pool is to protect it from damage due to freezing water. Another is to keep it as clean as possible for the next season. Closing your swim pool properly can save you a lot of work when it comes time to open the swimming pool for the summer.

  • The first step in the winterization procedure is to make sure your water chemistry is balanced. You should make sure that your pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness are all balanced. By balancing your water chemistry you are protecting the surface of the pool from staining and etching.
  • Adding a winterizing chemical kit to your water will help keep it blue and clear for the next season. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the kit.
  • Do not use a floater that contains a strong oxidizer (chlorine or bromine) as the floater will stick against the wall and stain and/or bleach your wall, especially a vinyl liner. For the same reasons DO NOT throw chlorine or bromine tablets into the pool. They will sink to the bottom and damage your pool's surface.
  • When water freezes, it expands. This can cause great damage to your pool, pool plumbing, and its filter system. If you are closing up your pool for the winter, you should always take precautions to protect from freeze damage no matter where you live. You can never be sure that it will not drop below freezing, even in the Sun Belt.
  • The next step is to lower the water below the mouth of your skimmer(s). This will get the water out of the throat of the skimmer which can be easily damaged if water were to freeze there.
  • Another option for vinyl liner pools is to put an Aquador over the mouth of the skimmer. This is a plastic dam which holds out the water from the skimmer, allowing you to leave the water level up for the winter. This will help in supporting your cover and also help keep the liner from "floating" if the winter is your rainy season. Sorry, they have not invented a similar device for concrete pools yet.
  • Blow out the water from your plumbing lines. You can do this using a shop vac. Use the discharge of the shop vac to blow water out of each line from the filter system. As the water is purged from each line, you will need to put a plug in the lines at the pool end. Some fittings will allow for a threaded plug, which is best. Be sure to use a plug with a rubber gasket or "O" ring to make a seal, or the water may fill the line back up. If your fittings are not threaded, then use a rubber freeze plug.
  • In the skimmer(s) you should use a Gizzmo to seal the line. This device is a hollow tube which will collapse if water should get into the skimmer and freeze. Be sure to put Teflon tape on the threads of the Gizzmo to make a seal and to ease removal in the spring. It is usually impractical to put a plug in the main drain if you have one, but its extreme depth will normally protect it from freezing.
  • You should cover your pool to keep out the debris. The type of cover you use will depend upon several factors.
  • The final step? You must drain all the water from your filter equipment.
    • The filter should have a plug at the bottom that will allow it to drain.
    • Be sure to open the air relief valve on top if you have one.
    • Put the multiport valve in the closed or "winterize" position and remove the pressure gauge.
    • Drain the pump. There may be two plugs to remove here.
    • After draining the pump, turn it on for a brief second to get the water out of the veins of the impeller. Do not run the pump more than a second or two because you can burn out the seal very quickly.
    • You should have let the chemicals (chlorine/bromine tablets) run out of your feeder so that no chemicals are left in it. Leaving chemicals in your feeder over the winter can cause damage to it and other equipment.
    • You will now be able to drain your chemical feeder and automatic cleaner pump, heater, and any other filter equipment that has water in it.
    • If you put all the plugs that you have removed into the pump strainer basket, they will be easily found in the spring.
    • It is a good idea to take the pressure gauge inside for the winter because water collects in its tube which can freeze and cause breakage.
    • Do not put the plugs back on the equipment. If equipment should get water in it, the plugs will prevent proper drainage.

Five Benefits of Gunite / Shotcrete Pools

Putting together a plan to have your own swimming pool is one of the best ways to enjoy the summer sunshine with friends and family. There are many items to take into consideration, not the least of which is the material from which the swimming pool is constructed. Working with your swimming pool builder will help you make decisions on the type of swimming pool, the construction material, and its shape and size.

The swimming pool contractors at Hawaiian Pool Builders offer these five tips to help you determine whether a concrete (aka Gunite/shotcrete) swimming pool might best suit your lifestyle:

  1. A concrete swimming pool will increase your home’s value. When you’re looking to eventually sell your home, a swimming pool is an investment that will pay off during resale.
  2. An in-ground swimming pool made of gunite will enhance the beauty and ambiance of your backyard. If you add decorative retaining walls to the swimming pool design you can further customize and personalize your swimming pool and your backyard.
  3. A concrete swimming pool will last for decades. Unlike many other pools building materials it doesn’t need replacement. A concrete swimming pool will cost more money up front than other styles of swimming pools but the investment made will be reaped in its durability and beauty.
  4. Concrete swimming pools offer more variety than do other swimming pool building materials. With a concrete swimming pool, the design and style you choose is literally only limited by your budget and your imagination.

The bottom line when it comes to the beauty of a concrete swimming pool is that they are a unique choice for families seeking a unique flair in their pool design. These swimming pools do take a bit longer to construct than others, but the wait is worth it once you know you’ll be spending decades enjoying your custom built swimming pool.

Here's a Look at the Largest Residential Pool in the World

Behold, the world's largest residential pool, which is located beside a 9,000-square-foot mansion in El Campo, Texas. Bowing to clients who wanted to create a "tropical getaway," pool designer Cheryl Kuykendall created an aquatic wonderland with a 40,000-square-foot main pool (filled with 750,000 gallons of water), six waterfalls, a 21-foot slide, a 500-foot lazy river, a bar, an outdoor kitchen, a kiddie area, and more. "The idea of this was to put so much into it that it was just an entire weekend of entertainment," Kuyendall explains of the project, which cost upwards of $3M.